PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAAbacus looks very modern indeed, with high ceilings, timber floors and a clever use of colour and texture. There are tiled panels on the walls as well as big murals that are a play on the name. A few traditional Chinese touches make themselves felt here and there, such as the golden good-fortune cats on the counter, but mostly this looks very contemporary. Sit back on comfortable red and black leather chairs while you peruse the wide-ranging menu choices.
The menu is pretty traditional although it tends to bend itself to Australian palates, with divisions into entree and main courses. The familiar dishes are present, many done very well, and set banquets give a good overview of the broad selection. The greens and mushrooms is a fine combination of baby Shanghai cabbage and shiitake, which goes well with fried whitebait (with crisp slivers of garlic) and the roast duck. Crayfish and snow crabs are available from the tanks, in season. At lunch time there is a flexible yum cha that enables you to choose one of two set selections, or make your own choice from a sheet of listed dishes. Tick what you want and it will appear in due course; the prawn and chive dumplings come highly recommended. BYO or select from the wine list which includes some by-the-glass options.
Rita Erlich, September 2007
