LOCATION
Top level of Melbourne Central in the CBD.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
How can an eatery as big as this be so hard to find? Well, it's only hard the first time, when it's easy to be confused by the many levels of Melbourne Central and the hustle and bustle that takes place inside. But once you find Cho Gao, you'll always remember how to get there. It's reminiscent of a large Vietnamese restaurant, all timber and cane and screens with decorative ceramics. It's also very distinctly Melbourne, with the large terrace area overlooking the Public Library, the music, and the bar. Cho Gao describes itself as an Asian beer cafe but it's also a versatile place for functions of all sizes.
The food is essentially south-east Asian and while the menu is not large, it does offer a good selection, listed under dishes to share, main courses, salads, noodles, and so on. Some of the share dishes - such as the single salt and pepper quail - seem a bit pricey, but the mains, served with jasmine rice, are more generous. There are all kinds of banquet menus, and happy hour prices are tempting, too. There's a great tea menu, as well as a good range of beers (by the jug as well as by the bottle and glass), and a small but reasonable wine selection. Try to get there early on Friday and Saturday nights; it's often so crowded you can't get near the bar.
Rita Erlich, March 2008
