LOCATIONPrahan.
Profiled by de Groots MediaInside the grand Victorian mansion, the only old-fashioned things are the gougeres, the big, traditional savory Burgundy pastries that arrive with drinks before a meal. They’ve been part of the Reymond tradition since he opened his first restaurant nearly 30 years ago. Here, they are presented in dining rooms made contemporary by colour and furnishings, but which keep the high ceilings of the original Victorian mansion. The attention to detail is wonderful, from the padded tabletops under the cloths, to the quality of the peppercorns in the mill.
The cooking is benchmark contemporary. No formal main courses, only entree-sized dishes that can be structured into at least three savory courses. Think of ingredients and textures playing, even duelling; think tiny specks of flavour that carry a mouthful of impact. Oysters, for example, come on a dished rectangular plate, barely cooked, with a seaweed crisp as fine as fabric; on the other side of the plate is a dense, intense piece of foie gras, flavoured with a hint of orange. The dividing line is made of beetroot and balsamic, and is a knockout with the foie gras. There are two formal degustation menus, one of which is a vegetarian selection of enormous imagination and delight. The wine list includes a number blended by Reymond himself, who has an excellent wine palate. The waiters, under the direction of Chris Young, make dinner here a rare experience.
Rita Erlich, October 2007
Awarded Three hats Age Good Food Guide 2008, Outstanding Achievement Award to Jacques Reymond
