PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAAlthough the fedora hat count is lower than it was in the good old days, this Melbourne institution still churns out Italian favourites in stride, with an emphasis on quality and authenticity. When bought by Denis Sabbadini and his father in the 1970s, The Waiters Restaurant, also known as The Italian Waiters Restaurant, already had a vibrant yet dubious reputation as a favourite haunt for underworld heavies and the crooked cops on their payroll. Three decades on, and with plenty of stories to tell, Sabbadini still owns and operates this eatery that has rightfully earned its place in the heart and history of Melbourne. Chef Mario Vidic’s menu still boasts hearty Italian dishes like the osso bucco and spaghetti marinara that are rich with flavour and have stood the test of time.
Hidden at the top of a staircase in the once vacant, now bustling Meyers Lane, The Waiters Restaurant has maintained its modest 1960s decor, including laminex tables and a chalkboard menu, but is frequented by suits and bohemians alike. I didn’t sight any underworld characters on my last visit but the place oozes character, history and stories that Sabbadini is happy to share. Try the antipasto plate and a pasta dish to understand why this place is legendary. I hear the puttanesca is to die for but I hate to think how it got its reputation.
Frank Trimboli, August 2008
