PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAMyrto and Paul Recinella are long-term professionals having moved from the popular Zio’s in East Melbourne to Ivanhoe three years ago. Ivanhoe might be very suburban, but suburban is a state of mind rather than a geographical location. Va Tutto – it means something like “everything goes” – is bright and smart, and is cleverly divided into two unique areas. There is a small bistro and a larger, more formal, dining room where the tables are set with white cloths, the lighting is softer and the dishes more elaborate. In either place, it’s easy to catch glimpses of the action within this proficiently-run kitchen. The food is contemporary in style, which is highlighted with some Asian influences and hints of Italy.
In the bistro, which is open non-stop from noon until close at around 10.30pm, there’s the possibility of coffee, a snack, a quick and extremely tasty pizza or a full meal. We began with one of the vegetable dishes – a generous quantity of just-cooked asparagus, topped with soft-boiled egg and parmesan – and then went on to a simple dish of egg-dipped, fried garfish, served with garlic aioli and rocket. Seafood dishes are recommended so try the steamed wild barramundi with soy, chilli and ginger. The steaks are excellent, too, with wider choices of cuts in the restaurant. If there’s no room for dessert, go for one of the small treats, such as a slice of baklava or cannoli, with coffee. The wine list is mainly Australian and New Zealand, with a generous choice by the glass. Friendly and knowledgeable waiters complete the overall package.
Rita Elrich, August 2008
